I don’t think you can replicate the exact characteristics, “feel”, of an endurance bike, on a bike with race geometry, simply by raising the stack and reducing the reach. The head tube angle and length, fork rake and trail, seat tube angle, chain stay length and wheelbase, top tube length, stack and reach will be different on an endurance bike, compared to a race bike. What you need to bear in mind is the other aspects of a bike’s geometry and how they affect how the bike rides "feels". My thoughts on what you are proposing, I’m no expert on bike fitting. You can change the stem length and angle to gain more stack/less reach and use a handlebar like the Specialized hover bar.ĭo not be tempted to push the saddle all the way forward on its rails to reduce the reach as that will mess up you position over the cranks and affect your pedalling efficiency. seat tube angle, head tube angle, head tube length, fork rake and trail, and wheelbase as well as stack and reach, compared to an endurance model bike.Īssuming you buy the correct size frame, you are not going to be able to replicate true "endurance feel" on a bike with race geometry, simply by inceasing the stack and/or shotening the reach IMO. What you need to bear in mind is the effect the other aspects of the bikes race geometry will have on the handling/feel of the bike. Hope what I am trying to achieve is clear and if there are other ways to achieve the same, please do share your thoughts and advice accordingly.Ĭan you tell me the make, mode, frame size and year of manufacture, of the race bike you are thinking of purchasing? And the kicker for me is once the bike is ordered, there will be no turning back so I’ve got to be as sure as I possibly can. In addition, the shops do not carry a range of bikes in variety or in sizes thus the importance of my getting a feel for the geometries "virtually”. I seek your insights based on your experiences as I reside in a country where Bike-Fits are available, but are not thorough, ( sadly most shops are not well informed as to the intricacies of a proper bike-fit ). To clarify : I am selecting a Race over an Endurance frame as overtime I hope to achieve a level of fitness where I can remove Spacers and revert to a Non-Raiser HandleBar and be able to ride a Race geometry comfortably. Noting all of the above, my question is if by increasing the “Stack” through the mentioned methods will I get within the the ballpark figure of an Endurance Geometry “feel” ? Will a deficiency of say 10mm for Reach in particular prohibit a “feel” of an Endurance bike ? But there will not be much I can do with respect to the Reach variable besides a 5mm reduction. which “should” bring me closer to an Endurance geometry with its more upright riding position. I plan on achieving the mentioned "in-between" geometries for a Race bike by incorporating a “Raise-Handlebar” ( which will add 20mm in Stack height and reduce Reach length by 5mm ), maintain the max number of Spacers under the stem, etc. The numbers for all bikes are differences when compared to that of the Holdsworth which is the base for all other frames in this comparison ). ( Please Note : The numbers in red for the attached image is for the Pinarello Paris which the company states leans towards an Endurance while the Avant by Orbea maintains a true Endurance geometry. To get a better feel for this attached is a table of differing bikes and their geometries. With this in mind I am trying to find a road bike that "sits" between a Race and an Endurance geometry.
#Road bike geometry calculator how to
Once again, a reputable bike shop should be able to offer impartial advice, and you can also read our guide on how to buy a bike.I am getting back to cycling after many-many years and of course have aged in-between. You’ll also want to make sure there’s enough range of adjustment for you to tweak the fit once you’ve bought the bike. You want to make sure you’re comfortable on a bike and check its handling. We also recommend taking any bikes you are considering buying for a test ride to gauge how they feel in action. You’ll be able to get bike fit advice in person from a bike shop. Once you’ve found the right size bike and got your position close, you can make smaller adjustments to fine-tune the fit. Of course, we’re not all the same shape and size, so use the information below as both a starting point and a guide. You need to be able to place both feet flat on the floor with at least a centimetre or so to spare at your crotch when standing astride the top tube. Have a read of our guide to finding the perfect road bike position.īeyond the main contact points, standover is also important. It also means your bike fits at all the main contact points: saddle, handlebars and pedals. Getting a good fit means more than just having the right size frame.
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